Hi there badcaps! This is my first time posting though, as I've run into a problem. When plugged into a motherboard the motherboard led turns on, but when trying to power the board on, fans will turn a little and then nothing. Measured around 5. I opened the unit, and most of the caps are actually fine, but there was a couple of bulging uF 6. First one can be seen in second attachment picture, and another in third and fourth pictures.
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Hi there badcaps! This is my first time posting though, as I've run into a problem. When plugged into a motherboard the motherboard led turns on, but when trying to power the board on, fans will turn a little and then nothing.
Measured around 5. I opened the unit, and most of the caps are actually fine, but there was a couple of bulging uF 6. First one can be seen in second attachment picture, and another in third and fourth pictures. I used flash on my camera to see the surroundings better.
What's also interesting in the second cap is, that it was covered with a rubber "sock", best seen in the last picture. The problem here is the size of those failed caps. The place near the heatsink though is so crammed, that there is practically no change of placing anything of larger diameter than 8mm.
Unfortunately none on my local shops in Finland have them in this size, and ordering internationally is often pricy. Ebay sure can find fake caps from china with appropriate size, but that's another thing. So then I was wondering if this uF cap could be replaced with a uF one? These would be much easier to get. I'm not good at reading the board layout, so I can't tell if the lower capacitance would have some effect on the behavior of the circuit.
I hope you could help me with that. Then again, I'm going to recap some W Antecs with a load of Fuhjyyus inside, so maybe ordering internationally isn't that bad. We'll see. JPG Last edited by wacce; at PM.. Ah, the plague of CapXons continues. Those are probably for the main 5V rail. Or they could be for the standby, but causing problems when the computer tries to start - as it will draw a bit more from standby on start up. Questions via PM will not be answered.
Post on the forums instead! Don't use Nichicon HM, they are motherboard grade caps, not suitable for power supplies. I wouldn't recommend you to replace uF caps with uF.
I have done it successfully in the past, but uF for a W psu isn't spectacular, so lowering capacitance even more isn't a good idea. I can't see an issue with using ultra low ESR caps on a standby output.
There will be no compensation issues with a low power output like that. If anything it will improve the longevity by installing over rated caps. I'd say just try it with the HM and see if it works, since they are the only reliable 8mm uF 6. If it doesn't work, then you can recap it again and squeeze in some more appropriate replacements. No wonder it doesn't work!
It prevents startup and can fry 5VSB related components due to them running hot. I've had a really bad EW once which seems to have been used with bad caps up to the point where the diodes in the 5VSB area around the smaller transformer were running hot for so long that the PCB disintegrated and disconnected them bottom of the PCB was black in that area and literally turned into dust upon touching it.. Needs to be a good quality low-esr cap cause the fans on these PSUs literally produce no airflow whatsoever till the PSU is cooking and the fan controller decides to wake up and provide more than just 3V!
I'd suggest replacing the fan while you're at it. Last edited by Scenic; at AM.. Thank you very much for comments! This PSU is going for a friend, so I'll have to make sure it stays alive as long as possible I do happen to have a black Yate Loon mm fan, which might be an appropriate replacement for the current fan, or I could take an orange one from Nexus W PSU. Any experiences on those? I'll post some updates when I've done the recapping and the possible fan replacement, or if I run into any additional problems.
Last edited by wacce; at AM.. The current fan is rated for 86CFM, which is plenty. Personally, I just put a resistor in parallel with the thermistor, so that the controller wakes up sooner. It's different for every fan controller, but I usually find out by temporarily soldering a Trimmer Pot in.
Tweak it until you find a good idle speed, and once you're happy with it, remove it and measure the resistance, and find a resistor which is approximately what you had the pot set to, although be careful not to move the knob when you're removing the pot. I have one on a plug which I use for testing, so I can just unplug it when I'm done testing, and then unsolder the plug from the PCB.
Since my plug is on wires, which I can have away from the PSU, it also saves having my hands too close to live components. The only way to add a resistor or a pot temporarily to the thermistor is by soldering it in on the bottom of the PCB, as the thermistor is underneath the secondary side heatsink and some E5's have so much white gunk in that area that you can't even see the little TO92 transistor right next to it let alone see the thermistor pins because it's covered in that stuff.
The PSU in the attached pics isn't that bad in terms of amount of white gunk. The attached photos are from a E parts unit. Last edited by Scenic; at PM..
Their plight, in fact is even worse, they don't realize that they're cantonists, they think they're free men. What a slavery that is - to confuse slavery for light, and bitter darkness for bright light. Remember, both fans on the SP-xxx are controlled by the same thermistor. Originally Posted by Scenic.
The only way to add a resistor or a pot temporarily to the thermistor is by soldering it in on the bottom of the PCB The attached photos are from a E parts unit. Thread Tools. All times are GMT The time now is PM. Did you find this forum helpful? User Name. Remember Me? Mark Forums Read. Attached Images. Find More Posts by wacce. Find More Posts by tom Find More Posts by goodpsusearch. Scenic o. Find More Posts by Scenic. Re: Be Quiet BQT EW recap, odd sized CapXon The only way to add a resistor or a pot temporarily to the thermistor is by soldering it in on the bottom of the PCB, as the thermistor is underneath the secondary side heatsink and some E5's have so much white gunk in that area that you can't even see the little TO92 transistor right next to it let alone see the thermistor pins because it's covered in that stuff.
Find More Posts by mockingbird. Quote: Originally Posted by Scenic The only way to add a resistor or a pot temporarily to the thermistor is by soldering it in on the bottom of the PCB The attached photos are from a E parts unit. Find More Posts by momaka. Posting Rules.
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